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|  Trip to Ecuador This page was last modified on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 11:50 AM
Dear friends, I am taking a one-month sabbatical to Ecuador in July and will be posting stories & photos along the way. A trip of this nature will be a new experience for me as I step outside of life as I know it in Clayton. While I have travelled internationally before (in England, France, and Germany), I have not experienced South America nor a lifestyle of a developing country. I will be joined by long-time friend Emily Rigotti, who received a Gates Foundation teaching grant to explore Ecuador and learn Spanish. I too will be learning Spanish and hope that my four years of study at Clayton Valley High School will come back to me. We will spend our first two weeks living with a host family in Cuenca, followed by one week living in huts in the Amazon, and lastly a tour of Baños and recovery at a resort along the coast. Editor´s note: the spelling and grammar of these posts will certainly contain embarassing errors. I am typing on a non-English keyboard and the constant translation of English to Spanish is having a negative effect on my English.  8/2/09
I arrived to San Francisco International Airport at 5:30pm, after traveling since 2am, and was exhausted yet elated to be back in the United States. I have never been more excited to see a Starbucks (more so for its modern comericalism, less so for its actual coffee), sterile American bathrooms, and English-speaking natives. My trip to Ecuador was an educational experience and I'm sure I will reflect on lessons learned when I have some time to process everything (you can checkout some of the photos now). But in the meanwhile, I am pleased to be back home and ready to reengage with life here in the United States. 7/28/09
All is well here in Baños, a tourist town at the base of an active volcano. We are staying at a wonderfully posh resort, with lots of relaxation in the hot mineral baths after a day`s hike or ATV excursion. Not much time to update now, but there are many updated photos in the gallery to wet your appetite. Also, there is a post from Emily on her blog as well.
 7/24/09
Emily and I just returned safely from the Amazon, where we spent the last week observing wild animals, obscure plants, and lots of sticky moisture. I am exhausted from the trip and will post updates at a later time. In the meanwhile, you can read an updated post from Emily. 7/17/09
Another week is coming to an end! Life in Cuenca has become quite regular, so I don´t have much to report, but am inclinded to post an update since we´re heading into the Amazon in a few days. Sunday will be our last day in Cuenca, when we fly back to Quito via a one-hour domestic flight. At 8pm, we board a bus heading to the Amazon, which will travel throughout the night. Emily informs me that numerous videos are played aboard and I have a feeling that my noise-canceling Zune earphones will come in handy. Around 4am we arrive in Coca and do who knows what! Sometime later in the morninig, we take a one-hour canoe ride down an Amazonian river, where we finally arrive at the Yarina Lodge -- our home for the week. I am excited to begin the next chapter of this trip and am all geared up with ponchos, DEET bug repellant, and a life-time supply of flashlight batteries. We will trek in the forest, fish for piranhas, practice our blow-gun skills, and lastly witness firsthand the largest diversity of mirco-habitats in the world. Tonight a group of us are going out to dinner, as today is the last Spanish class for some of the students (including Emily). Six of us are from the Bay Area (go figure), with others from Michigan, London, and Sweden. A good group of people, but certainly not local Ecuadorians! This trip has made me realize that a 6-12 month ¨study aboard¨ stint in college would have driven me crazy. All of the students I have met at the Spanish school here seem to be in search of something; in search of oneself or self-actualization, I suppose. I can only be so introverted and the there´s really more important work to do; away for a year would have been too much! If you´re compelled, you can view one of the ¨thank you¨ presents I made for our host mother, Conchita, who is an avid oil painter. She often commented on how beautiful the flowers are around her yard, but is unable to clearly see them due to their tiny size. So I photographed and enlarged several of them, creating a little picturebook that she can use as a model to paint. I hope she likes it!  7/13/09
Since most of the entire city of Cuenca is closed on Sunday, Emily and I decided to hike a nearby mountain over 12,000 feet. Almost 90% of the Cuencan population is Catholic, with the remainder Protestant and a handful of nonbelievers. This demographic causes the stores to close on Sunday and the churches to open -- almost 50 churches, including the largest one in South America. About 40 minutes outside of the city is Cajas National Park, which includes around 270 lakes, a tundra vegetation, and original Incan trails to the coast. As most of the trails are not well marked, Emily and I hired a tour guide for the day. Also joining us was a French couple from Paris and a wafer-thin Russian woman. We all spoke English (including the guide) and were approximately in our mid-to-late twenties in age. Our journey began at 8am, where we were picked up in a dodgy minivan, driven by what appeared to be the guide´s friend. Our host for the day was Juan, who was also young but mostly knowledgeable about Cuenca and Cajas. As we snaked through the city streets on our way out of town, Juan narrated a few titbits about Cuenca that we must know (and which I have mostly forgotten or otherwise would write them down at this time). We were quickly on the highway, which was under construction, and stopped a few times to allow for one-way traffic. While stopped, several locals would rush the cars, hawking snacks and water to the passengers as a way to make a quick buck. We travelled on...  Once arrived, we spent three hours hiking approximately 4 kilometres through various terrain: open grassy highlands, gnarled darkened forests, lush flowery meadows, and exceptionally-moist lakesides. When we first started hiking, the 12,000-foot altitude began to affect me via a throbbing headache in my temples. However, with the aid of chocolate (the Incans used to chew on coca leaves while then made their journey to the coast, which provided a highly-drugged mindset to endure the caustic journey west), I quickly became healthy and led the group. Juan, in response to my speed, asked me if I hiked often, to which I replied: ¨I sit in front of a computer all day long in an office chair¨-- he was impressed. While in a more remote area of the park, we came across an abandoned brewery, which had been used in the 1950s as a bootlegger´s hideout during prohibition. The crumbling brick building, sitting lakeside, had a tremendous amount of potential for a resort, but no one asked me for my enterprising, ¨el capitalista¨, opinion.
The hike ended relatively quickly and our driver was waiting at the end of the trail for our arrival. As everyone was famished, when packed into the minivan and with a squeal of the timing belt, we launched back onto the freeway to lunch. A few miles down the road we pulled onto a dirt road and drove by several ponds of jumping rainbow trout -- our meal. In all of the 270 lakes in Cajas, trout is the only fish due to their predatory nature. I tried the friend fish, served with a side of rice, carrots, and some roasted root similar to a potato -- with a large Pilzner to drink, which was a bad idea. After lunch we rolled back down to Cuenca and said goodbye to our party, which has become friends for the day. After walking home, my head began to throb again and I was extremely tired. So I laid down and slept for a while, waking to a stomach ache. I was unable to make our 8pm dinner and sent Emily alone to dine with our host family. When she returned an hour later, I heard the clank of glass and she arrived with a cup of oregano tea, graciously sent from Conchita, to help fight my altitude sickness. I was ordered by Conchita (via Emily) to drink two cups and go to bed, which I did. The aftertaste was as if I had eaten pasta sauce all day long. When I woke in the morning, was I was ready to take on another day!  7/10/09
Today I did laundry – by hand. Our apartment has a small enclosed porch in the front, which includes a washroom on the side composed of a sink, clothesline, and a few buckets. As one who prefers full-service hotels versus camping, I have never had the need to wash anything by hand, let along dry it on a line. However, it seems very common in Ecuador (even in the city) to wash one´s clothes by hand and air dry them. So I jumped in head first; cuando en Ecuador, ser Ecuadorian!
I have been working on my tan, so I stripped off my shirt to enjoy the afternoon sun, which radiates like an infrared oven cooking a chicken. The water in the front half of the house (including the washroom) is cold, with the only source of hot water in the back bathroom. And I was inclined to wash at least my underwear in the hottest water possible. So with my Zune strapped on (listening to O.A.R.), I filled two buckets in the rear of the house with hot water and attempted to not spill all over the floor as I navigated the numerous stairs back to the washroom.
Emily and I bought a small bag of powdered detergent, which I casually measured into one of the buckets and dropped in five pairs of underwear, sloshing them around a bit with one finger. While those were soaking, I was able to wash a few shirts in the second bucket, setting them aside to later rinse. And lastly, with much hesitation, I dropped my one pair of white, J.W. Nordstrom pleated shorts into the murky water and prayed for the best. Fantastíco!
As time is of the abundance, I decided to take a smoking break and work on my tan while my clothing cleaned itself in the buckets. I do not often smoke, but there´s something about being in South America (and Paris for that matter) that gives me a desire to light up. While pulling a drag on my Lark cigarette, I wondered why seemingly-developed societies would still complete such a menial task by hand. What would housewives do with their free time if they didn´t spend hours a day washing clothes (let along cooking three meals a day including juice)? I´m sure some of the reasoning is economic, but another part of me wonders if gender roles and suppressed female liberation ties into it as well.
My cigarette went out quickly, as I breathe deeply in Cuenca´s oxygen-poor atmosphere, so I began the rise cycle. The sink in the outdoor washroom has a pipe running horizontal to the floor with holes drilled every two inches, which causes several streams of water to spray on a garment at once. This allows for tedious, yet efficient work and I was able to rinse all of my clean clothes in about 10 minutes and hang them to dry on the line.
I felt accomplished and somewhat skilful, so I moved onto my next task: fix the erratic showerhead that shoots water into one´s body like a thousand needles – it´s a terrible way to start the day. While I was lacking a toolbox, I did have one important item that has never failed me -- my pocket knife. I am amazed at the endless things man can do with his boyhood pocket knife: saw through the branch of an oak tree, chop mint out of the creek, cut his sister´s hair unknowingly, and lastly scrape gunk out of a semi-clogged shower head. After a few twists of the flat head screw driver and poking about with the metal tooth pick, I had a luxuriously-flowing shower to look forward to in the morning. Exhausted, it was time for a siesta…my day´s work was done! 7/9/2009
Technical dificulities has prevented me from posting any new blog entries nor photos these past few days. While Ecuador may be a developing country, the Internet access here remains 3rd world (as far as technology standards). Windows XP is prolific (and probably pirated), with outdated versions of Internet Explorer and other web components. The Internet has been down these past two days at our school, so I am now in a CiberCafe listening to Spanish music and typing on a foreign keyboard with a broken spacebar. One of these days I will attempt to purchase a pirated copy of a Microsoft software from a local media store (that sells music CDs, video DVD, and fadded software boxes). The Internet did provide me access to an updated Clayton Pioneer, fresh stories via Claycord.com, and a slew of feeds from Engadget. Oddly, I cannot pull up Microsoft.com or the City of Clayton websites--probably a sign that I should not be working! Oh, and to top it off, yesterdayI saw a business man purchase a new, sealed 3.5-inch floppy disk from a office supply store. Are you kidding me?  7/7/2009
While only in Cuenca for three days, our time here has become quite prescribed and scheduled. Three meals a day act as bookmarks and I don’t think I have ever eaten with such regularity. Our alarm rings at 8am so we can ready for a 9am breakfast. The conversations with our host mother, Conchita, have become more complex, although it is very difficult to know how to react to what I only assume are very deep topics -- like religion, politics, and the health of her husband -- when I don’t fully understand them. Fortunately, Conchita is very expressive in body language and one can mimic her light-hearted laughs even when I have no idea what she is saying. Meals end without hunger but are mentally exhausting.
Since Emily has Spanish lesson from 2 to 6 o’clock in the afternoon, the mornings are our opportunity to explore, with recommendations provided by Conchita. The past two days Emily and I have spent touring museums in Cuenca: el Museo de Moderno y el Museo del Banco. The Modern Art Museum is housed in an old insane asylum, with beautiful gardens throughout. There was a special exhibit of children’s drawings, which provides a unique perspective to the country. The Bank Museum was more impressive, as it houses exhibits on the nation’s indigenous tribes, the history of its money, and sits on the site of an Incan ruin, complete with old foundations, vegetable gardens, fruit trees, and a collection of native birds in aviaries. The museum is set on a hill overlooking the city, with the gardens and rivers below.
After our morning explorations, we walk the 20 minutes back home and have lunch with Conchita and debrief as best we can on our findings. Conchita is a professional host mother and has the routine polished. At times I think it’s too prescribed and almost like we’re on an all-inclusive tour. But the situation is nonetheless enjoyable and I have enough free time to do as I wish.
When lunch ends I often take a quick nap while Emily prepares for school. I walk her to school every day and after the students have hulled up in their classrooms, I enter the archaic computer room and attempt to communicate with the rest of the world. I am trying to take a complete break and remain relatively disconnected, which one can rarely do. However, the simple lack of a cell phone pushing email to me 24x7 is a breath of fresh air and I can certainly feel myself decompressing.
While Emily is in school from 2-6pm, I do whatever I feel like. Yesterday I ran errands, which included going to many stores in search of Cartas de Poka (poker cards), as Emily and I need a way to pass the time at night. I finally found a deck in a stationary store and attempted to pay $4 for it, only to realize that it cost $0.40 – I really must learn my numbers. Next, I went to the grocery store for water, boxed wine, and snacks. Then straightened the apartment just in time to return to the city to pickup Emily from school.
A brisk walk from our apartment to Emily´s school only takes 20 minutes, but the 12,000-foot altitude, up-hill route, and excessive automobile exhaust leaves me breathless by the time I arrive. I swear the only thing keeping me alive is Conchita´s magic health juice that we are required to drink with each meal.  7/5/2009
Emily and I have arrived safely to Cuenca, Ecuador where we are staying with a very welcoming host family. Our host mother is Conchita, who has two grown sons and four grandchildren (who do not live with her). We are not sure if the man living in her house is her husband or brother-in-law, as Conchita strictly speaks Spanish so there has been many communication issues. I am known in the house as ¨Teddí¨, something that Emily has become quite fond of in a joking manner. Regardless on language, Conchita stays at home most of the day cooking, tending to the house (although they have house keepers can come occasionally), and painting in oil. Emily and I are provided three meals a day, promptly served at 9:00, 12:30, and 8:00. The first night during dinner this beautiful girl came down the staircase and in polite, professional Ted Meriam style, I rose from my chair, extended my hand, and was getting through ¨Me llamo Ted...¨when the girl grabbed my hand instead of shaking it, pulled me toward her heavily-frangrant body, and proceeded to kiss me on the cheek. Welcome to Ecuador! Each meal includes a glass of freshly prepared jugo (juice) from fruit, flowers, and/or herbs which we have been told helps fight cancer and provide general good health. The table conversation has been a bit stale and I don´t know how much more I can say things such as ¨I like cheese¨ and ¨We go to the museum today¨. I think I´m learning to use the language more skillfully, but then again its only been three days. Hopefully Emily will pickup some Spanish phrases quickly so we can elevate the maturity of our conversation. I, however, have been able to get us by on a day-to-day using my Spanish education from Clayton Valley and a pocket phrase book.  The accomodations that Emily and I have been provided are certainly more than we could ask for. We are living in a second-dwelling unit (the City of Clayton should take heed to this productive use of space...more work to be done as a Commissioner when I return to the States) attached to the main home. In its approximately 500 sq feet, we have 1.5 baths, a huge walk in closet, kitchen, living area, and sleeping quarters with two full beds. There is also a delightful courtyard that has yet to see its potential and is rather baren, but may provide a getaway for an afternoon siesta. The City - Cuenca - is split into two sectors: la ciudad nueva and la ciudad vieja (new and old). Our homestay is in the newer suburbs, but a quick 5-minute walk across the river allows us to quickly enter the more historic area. The organization of the city is very Spanish, with a central park and streets running longitudinally and latitudinally to make a grid. The architecture reminds me of being in Europe, with cobbleston streets and storefronts immedately on the sidewalk. Traffic does not stop for pedestrians, even when there is a Pare (stop) sign, which after being almost hit by a truck, I can only assume is a suggestive yield to other cars. We learn along the way... 7/4/2009
Hello from Quito, Ecuador! We have arrived safely at the JW Marriott Hotel for our first night in town. The two flights were uneventful, Customs was smooth sailing, and a 10 minute taxi to the Americanized hotel to get our bearings. Tomorrow we will regroup and then fly to Cuenca to meet our host family who is picking us up at the airport. I'll communicate with you over the next day or two we I find an Internet cafe to let you know we got settled with our host family.
Main attempt at Spanish was talking to the cab driver: "Me llamo un poco Español" = "My name a little Spanish"! But I'm here to learn and will get better.
Happy 4th of July! 
Ted 7/2/2009
One day before we leave. I am spending my last day in Clayton packing, shutting down the house, and wondering if I'm crazy to be taking such an off-the-beaten-path trip. Below is a more detailed intinerary of our travels. Date… | Location… | Accommodation… | Friday, July 3rd | Fly San Fran à Houston à Quito | JW Marriot Hotel in Quito | Saturday, July 4th
(we stay for 2 weeks in Cuenca & should have internet access)
| Fly Quito à Cuenca | Homestay in Cuenca FAMILY MALDONADO MOTHER: Name: Conchita Private Urbanization – Neighbourhood called “Sta. Ines”. It’s a mini apartment connected with the house and it has all the facilities, 1 bedroom, 1 kitchen, 1.5 bathrooms, living room and patio. The family likes to do many activities with the students. PHONE: 2814643 CELLPHONE: 099283529 Walking from school: 20 minutes
| Sunday, July 19th | Fly Cuenca à Quito |
| Sunday, July 19th | Bus Quito à Amazon Jungle | Yarina Lodge (4 nights stay) | Friday, July 24th | Bus Amazon à Quito | Cartuja Hotel (2 nights stay)
| Sunday, July 26th | Bus Quito à Los Banos | Hosteria Luna Runtun (3 nights stay) | Wednesday, July 29th | Bus Los Banos à Quito |
| Wednesday, July 29th | Fly Quito à Manta Bus Manta à Palmazul Hotel in Puerto Rico | Palmazul Hotel (3 nights stay)
| Saturday, August 1st | Bus Palmazul à Manta Fly Manta à Quito | 2 nights stay in Quito at hotel that’s TBD | Sunday, August 2nd | Ted back to the US | End of trip. |
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